Nylon (polyamide, PA) is the strongest and toughest of the common filaments — the material for gears, living hinges and parts that must survive real abuse. It is also the most demanding, and for one reason above all: it drinks moisture from the air faster than anything else you will print. Master drying and adhesion and nylon rewards you with parts nothing else can match.
Nylon at a glance
Nylon is prized for toughness, wear resistance and a natural slipperiness that makes it excellent for moving parts. The catch is that it is extremely hygroscopic and needs heat, so it sits firmly in the advanced category.
- Hotend: 240–280°C (all-metal hotend required)
- Bed: 80–100°C
- Cooling: off or very low
- Enclosure: strongly recommended to hold heat and reduce warping
- Drying: mandatory — print from a heated dry box
- Adhesion: nylon-specific sheet, PVA glue stick or a garolite plate
Use nylon for functional gears, living hinges, tool parts, cable guides, bushings and anything that must flex repeatedly or resist wear.
The two things that decide success
- Dryness. Nylon can absorb enough water in a couple of humid hours to ruin a print — popping, foaming, weak, rough parts. You dry it and then keep drying it while printing. See nylon drying & moisture.
- Adhesion. Nylon resists sticking to normal build surfaces and warps as it cools. The right surface plus heat and a brim makes the difference. See nylon bed adhesion & warping.
FAQ
What temperature does nylon print at?
Do I have to dry nylon?
Does nylon need an enclosure?
What surface does nylon stick to?
More Nylon (PA) guides
Reviewed 2026-08-18. Starting points and general guidance — always calibrate for your filament brand and machine.