ABS and ASA are the classic "tough, heat-resistant" filaments — strong, durable and able to survive a hot car. They are also the ones that punish you for skipping the setup: without an enclosure they warp and crack, and their fumes need ventilation. Get the environment right and they become reliable engineering materials. (ASA is essentially UV-stable ABS and prints the same way.)
ABS vs ASA at a glance
ABS and ASA are close cousins. ASA is formulated to resist UV, so it holds colour and strength outdoors where ABS yellows and gets brittle. Otherwise they print almost identically.
- Hotend: ABS 230–255°C, ASA 240–260°C
- Bed: 90–110°C
- Cooling: off, or very low
- Enclosure: essential — not optional
- Ventilation: required (styrene fumes)
- Nozzle: brass is fine
Choose ASA for outdoor parts; ABS for indoor parts where UV isn’t a factor and you want the lowest cost.
The two things that make or break ABS/ASA
- A stable, warm chamber. ABS and ASA shrink as they cool; uneven cooling makes corners lift and layers crack. An enclosure that holds heat is the single biggest factor. See how to stop ABS/ASA warping.
- Ventilation. Melting ABS/ASA releases styrene and ultrafine particles. Print in a vented enclosure, not a living space. See ABS ventilation & safety.
FAQ
What temperature for ABS and ASA?
Do I really need an enclosure for ABS?
Is ABS dangerous to print?
ABS or ASA — which should I use?
More ABS guides
Reviewed 2026-08-18. Starting points and general guidance — always calibrate for your filament brand and machine.