Warping and cracking are the defining struggle with ABS and ASA, and they come from one root cause: the material shrinks as it cools, and uneven cooling puts the part under stress. Every fix below is about making cooling slow and even.
Use an enclosure and keep it warm
An enclosure traps the heat rising from the bed and keeps the whole part warm while it prints, so it shrinks evenly instead of curling. This is non-negotiable for ABS/ASA on anything larger than a few centimetres. Pre-warm the chamber before starting, and keep the door shut for the entire print — opening it mid-print is a common cause of a crack halfway up.
Kill drafts and turn off cooling
A cold draft from an open window or AC hitting one side of the print causes that side to contract faster — instant warp. Keep the printer away from drafts. And unlike PLA, turn the part-cooling fan off (or very low); active cooling is exactly what you don’t want, except briefly for bridges.
Bed adhesion: temperature, brim and surface
Give the first layer every chance to hold:
- Bed 90–110°C, clean and grease-free.
- Brim (or a raft) to anchor corners — the bigger the footprint, the more it helps.
- Adhesion aid: ABS slurry (ABS dissolved in acetone) or a glue stick on the plate.
- Mouse ears / chamfers on sharp corners, which lift first.
If a tall part cracks or splits along a layer partway up, the chamber is losing heat — improve insulation and keep the door closed.
FAQ
Why does my ABS keep warping?
Why does ABS crack partway up a tall print?
Should I use a fan with ABS?
More ABS guides
Reviewed 2026-08-18. Starting points and general guidance — always calibrate for your filament brand and machine.