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PETG Print Settings: The Complete Guide

PETG is the sweet spot between easy PLA and tough ABS — strong, slightly flexible, weather-resistant and food-adjacent, with no enclosure and no fumes. It also has three quirks that trip people up: it strings when wet, it sticks to the bed hard enough to tear it, and it hates too much cooling. This guide covers each one, then links to a dedicated deep-dive.

In this guide series

PETG at a glance

PETG (polyethylene terephthalate glycol) is a modified version of the PET used in drink bottles. The glycol modification stops it going cloudy and brittle when printed, giving a tough, slightly flexible material that resists water, weak acids and UV far better than PLA. It prints without an enclosure and without noticeable fumes, which is why it has become the default "second filament" after PLA.

  • Hotend: 230–250°C (start at 240°C)
  • Bed: 70–85°C
  • Speed: 40–60 mm/s for clean walls
  • Cooling: low — around 30–50% part fan
  • Enclosure: not needed
  • Nozzle: brass is fine (plain PETG is not abrasive)

Use PETG for functional and outdoor parts: brackets, enclosures, planters, mounts and anything that would soften in a hot car if printed in PLA.

The three things that go wrong with PETG

Almost every PETG complaint comes down to one of three issues, each with its own deep-dive guide:

  1. Stringing. PETG absorbs moisture quickly and then strings badly. Drying the spool fixes most cases before you ever touch retraction. See how to stop PETG stringing.
  2. Over-adhesion. PETG can bond so hard to PEI or glass that it tears the surface. The fix is to use glue stick as a release agent. See PETG bed adhesion.
  3. Too much cooling. Unlike PLA, PETG loses layer strength with a high fan. See PETG cooling.

Get the temperature right and handle those three, and PETG becomes one of the most reliable materials you can print.

💡 Want the exact numbers for your machine? See PETG settings across 25 printers, or pick your printer for a hardware-aware profile.

FAQ

What temperature should PETG print at?
Most PETG prints well between 230 and 250°C, with 240°C a good starting point, and a 70–85°C bed. Run a temperature tower to find your brand’s sweet spot.
Why does my PETG string so much?
The number-one cause is moisture. PETG absorbs water from the air and then strings no matter how well retraction is tuned. Dry the spool first, then lower temperature slightly and raise travel speed.
Do I need an enclosure for PETG?
No. PETG prints fine on an open-frame printer and does not need an enclosure, unlike ABS or ASA. Just keep the part-cooling fan low.
Is PETG food safe?
The raw polymer is considered food-contact friendly, but FDM prints have tiny crevices that harbour bacteria and the filament may contain colourants, so printed PETG is not reliably food safe for repeated use.

More PETG guides

The Best PETG Temperature (Hotend & Bed)What temperature to print PETG at: the 230–250°C range explained, how to run a P…How to Stop PETG Stringing (Retraction & Drying)A step-by-step fix for PETG stringing: dry the filament first, then tune tempera…PETG Bed Adhesion: Sticking Without Ripping the PlatePETG has the opposite problem to most filaments: it sticks too well. How to get …PETG Cooling: How Much Fan Does PETG Need?PETG needs some part cooling but too much fan ruins layer strength. How to set P…

Reviewed 2026-08-18. Starting points and general guidance — always calibrate for your filament brand and machine.